Nicaragua

Ecotourism
Nicaraguan Adventure

We live on the northeastern side of Nicaragua (in the RAAN district) in an old mining town called Siuna. We're here on a 3-year volunteer position with Mennonite Central Committee, and work with environmental education and an ecotourism project. Most guidebooks give little to no options/information for travelers wishing to soak in and hike through the biodiversity of the largest rainforest north of Brazil -- the Bosawas (bo-saw-WAS) Rainforest (where we work). So, we thought we'd give you some suggestions as to how to get to one of the most beautiful and overlooked rainforests in Central America.

SIUNA
ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION
In order to get to Bosawas, you must first get to Siuna. You can do this a couple of ways:

1). You can fly round-trip from Managua on the La Costeña airline (in a 15-seat Cessna) for C$850/round-trip. Flights are daily.

2). Hop an Expreso bus -- retired school buses that go non-stop (except for one meal) between Siuna and Managua (the trip is approx. 9 hours). These are the best of the public transpo options because they don't pick up prospective passengers waiting by the side of the road. The buses typically arrive at their destinations a couple hours before the non-Expresos. All Expresos leave from the Mayoreo (Managua) market everyday around 5 a.m. It's helpful to try to reserve a seat on the buses the night before; they're often full. The cost is C$80 one-way.

[Note: talk to the bus driver before you get off to find out when they'd be going back to Managua. If you have a definite schedule, you can reserve with them then and won't have to worry about it later.]

A small booming town of 10,000, Siuna has 24-hour electricity and telephone (sorry, no email access). There is a clean, reliable clinic open Monday-Friday that offers lab services and a market that yields a pretty good selection of local fruits, vegetables, and the ever-necessary bottled water. You may also check out the ruins of the old mines. They're close to the market and one of the buildings houses the noisy town generator.

The most popular restaurant in town is the "Desnuque." It can rustle up an impressive plate of gallopinto with all the fixins, comida corriente, a la carte, and has been known to make pizzas on occasion. It's open until 9 p.m.

The restaurant, "Hoyming," demonstrates Siuna's Chinese flavor. As the story goes, Chinese immigrated to Siuna from Puerto Cabezas to work during the mining era. While most of them left when the mines closed, their influence on the food has continued. Hoyming offers typical comida corriente and a la carte, but also serves up chow mein, chop suey, and sopa de tallerin (a giant soup bowl filled with broth, spaghetti noodles, vegetables, and meat). It closes around 10 p.m.

ACCOMMODATIONS
The following is a list of the small guesthouses and hotels in Siuna (in no particular order):

1). Pilo and Isa Padilla have 3 comfortable rooms added onto their house. They live close to the bank ("Contiguo al Banco"). One room has two single beds - for one person the cost is C$60; for two it's C$80. Two rooms have double beds, and the cost is C$80. You may request meals. (Breakfast is C$15; lunch is C$23; supper is C$15.)

2). "Hospedaje Siu" presents a relaxing atmosphere with lots of trees that offer both shade and beauty. Double rooms are C$120, and singles are C$75. (There's a bath for every two rooms.) For C$200/day you can rent their apartment. Breakfasts are C$18 and suppers are C$30.

3). "Estancia del Desnuque," up a steep set of stairs from the restaurant, "Desnuque," offers 4 rooms -- each with bath. C$100 with breakfast, or C$75 without.

4). "Hospedaje El Costeño" has 19 rooms. C$40 for one person and C$60 for two. This hotel does not offer meals but restaurants are nearby.

El HORMIGUERO/BOSAWAS RAINFOREST
ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Once you've arrived in Siuna, fueled up on the good food of the region, and enjoyed a night's rest, it's time to head to El Hormiguero. Pilo Padilla (mentioned above with accommodations) has a transpo route to and from the small community. He leaves his house at 5 a.m. every morning, but you'll need to verify when he'd return to El Hormiguero for your trip back to Siuna. The cost is C$17/one-way.

There are also public transpo vehicles that leave the market around 1 p.m., 2:30 p.m., and 5 p.m. They're usually full to the brim (get there 15 min. early for a good seat) and offer an authentic trip in the campo complete with grain sacks and chickens. They also cost C$17/one-way.

The trip to El Hormiguero is approx. 1 hour, and en route you will be surrounded by deforested land that just 15 years ago was primary growth rainforest.

El Hormiguero is small community of 2,000 and is at the heart of the ecotourism project. The project was created to be an ecomonic development tool that also advocates preservation of the forest and the consequences of deforestation.

ACCOMMODATIONS
Now that you've made it to the community, you'll need to locate those who are involved in the ecotourism project (more details below). There are no hotels or restaurants in El Hormiguero. No electricity or phones either. Enjoy the sound of the crickets (and roosters) and if you're like the locals, you'll hit the sack around 7 p.m.

Members of the ecotourism committee will assist you in finding an experienced (Spanish-speaking only) guide for the hike, and will make accommodations for you to enjoy traditional Nicaraguan meals and rustic overnight accommodations (usually in their homes). There's also a ranger's station/visitor's center on the edge of town that could accommodate you and a hammock for a night's sleep.

Your options for the hike are many. You can trek in, see the wildlife (such as monkeys, toucans, scarlet macaws, and the occasional sloth), eat a bite, and head back out in one day (this can be a strenuous day as the pace needs to be quick). Or, you can take more time and hike in to the ecotourism camp (a 4-5 hour hike from the community). The camp consists of a wooden structure that allows for a dry night's sleep in a hammock; there's a river closeby for bathing.

A year ago, a huge tree fell on the previous camp and the ecotourism committee moved the campsite to the present location. It is now on a plot of land that the committee is using for experimental agriculture practices, and while there is a house on the land (and yes, roosters, too), the dense rainforest is all around.

Physically-challenging day hikes can be taken from the camp into the surrounding forest where you will have the chance to spot more animals, blooming orchids, ancient trees, and lots of exotic birds. After another night's stay at the camp, you can head back to the community.

More adventurous types can arrange for more days in the forest, or for a strenuous hike up Mount Saslaya - one of the highest peaks on the Atlantic Coast. This grueling trek will take at least 3 days round-trip. (The top of the mountain is cloud forest, so it will be cold at night.) There aren't a lot of visitors who choose to climb Mt. Saslaya, so special arrangements will need to be made.

CONTACT INFORMATION IN EL HORMIGUERO
Fermin Estrada - Forest ranger and the ecotour project's main contact
Fidel Vega - Forest ranger
Jose Mercedes Ruiz - School teacher and experienced trail guide

While these are the main contacts in the community, most anyone around can help you locate someone who is involved with the ecotour project. There are a handful of people involved in the project who are willing and able to help you find sleeping accommodations, meals, and arrange for the hike of your choice; they aren't hard to find if you speak Spanish.

APPROXIMATE COSTS FOR ECOTOURS
Trail guides (a necessity): C$100/day
Meals: C$20-30/meal
Horses or mules: C$40/day
Overnight stay: C$30-40/night
(Prices subject to fluctuate)